OG Bassilisk Boombox

Build requieres 3D printer with 256x256 mm bed. There are a TON of hours of print time for this build so you can start printing days before you actually start build the boombox.

The core part of the build is MDF enclosures, Total 12 MDF panels, pretty easy one, except for one that top panel that has cutout for passive radiator. I ordered it using .DXF file, You can find DXF file in downloads. section I have used screws to hold the form and glued using normal wooden glue.

Use butyl rubber tape, aluminum butyl oder butyl sound deadening mat inside small enclosures, dont need to use in main big block it will have all the electronics inside.

I love black matt paint for this build and would absolutly recommend you to go with black matte. Becuase it looks dope and it will better hide the inperfections of your MDF. Here in Germany i used THE ONE Paint & Primer: MATT Finish. Any matt wood pain should be fine. You can also skip painting at this point and later paint the whole 3 body parts core.

Use the same wood glue and atleast 2 self-tapping screws that will attach securely small boxes to big one. This is important because we will carry trhe boombox sideways too, it will be heavy and enclosures need to be properly attached. Can be tricky, i used ratched but there should be some space inside the big box. And yes sideboxes should be vertically aligned in the middle and simetrical if possible. You can also paint at this step, doesnt really matter.

Depending on what material you are printing parts from depends on the glue to use. For PLA, PETG use Cyanoacrylate based Super Glue, works very good, for ABS, ASA etc use different glue types, likes two component.

Ports are made of out multiple parts and needs to be glued together and than glued to back plate. Here is example of white ports on simple back side and grey on new current back sides.

Now we glue together, assemble, drill holes and mount top handle on mid block. For it to work i recomend to print main parts with atleast 50% gyroid pattern and use 15mm diameter aluminum pipe as a core of handle. Handle core has multiple decoration parts that also need to be glued together. Lenght of the Pipe shouldbe 350mm. Ends will use styling Strela parts that cover raw edge and requires you to drill holes in pipe, use M3 threaded insert into strela and so you mount and secure handle using stoper screw that prevents handle from moving and sliding out.

The next big thing is Midrange Enclosures that consists out of multiple parts that also need to be glueed together. The main are big bottom and top part than decoration ring and than big frame around to hide glued spots. Than on top goes Cover that is mounted using M3 Threaded inserts and Screws. Thing need to be glueed tight without leaks and you can also use butyl rubber tape inside to make it even more tankier and rigid.

Tweeter enclosures consist of multiple parts that are mostly not glue but mounted together also using a lot of M3 Threaded inserts and screws. Mounting platform and enclosure parts that go on top of it. Yes you also need to heat Threaded insert into half holes.

One of the trickiest parts of the build is glueing and screwing MDF enclosures to 3D printed front and back Panels using EPOXY glue. You have to drill holes for screws, than use epoxy and than screw panels back. The problem is that epoxy is messy and it will leave a lot of martks on plastic and wood if not careful. We will later hide glueing lines with decrations.

We want to lay cables throut all the mounted enclosures and than ofcourse seal everything. I was sealing using butyl cord. Keep in mind we will be parallel connecting because our DSP amp is capable to get 2 Ohm load. All the printed enclosures have holes for cables. For MDF you have obviously to make one.

We want to install AMP and Battery block inside subwoofer enclosure. The battery goes on bottom and amp on side wall. It is kinda tricking, there are models that help installing it but i was using small screws and small ratchet to get them really tight. On photos you can see i am using bytul aluminum anti vibration stuff on the bottom of the boombox and its false, dont do it, because there is risk you will somehow short and burn amp or battery block.

In order for stuff to work we need to burn TWS firmware to get acess to Aptx-HD Codec for better sound quality. Install sigma studio, load preset i made for bassilisk directly on the board and rename BT chip name.

I have tuned and made preset for this boombox. You can download it in download files. Here is how you install it.