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Measured response has a deep notch right at 2 kHz, exactly my crossover point. Reversed tweeter polarity and the notch filled in. So... my XO phase is wrong, not baffle step, right?
докжгфсд дасдасд дасд However, upon receiving the air fryer just now and unboxing it, it seems that there is non stick coating on it at least at first glance, similar to the coating from the Philips AirFryers. Does anyone have any idea as we specifically wanted to get one without all those non stick coatings that when scratched it becomes an issue.
Big peak at 45 Hz, dip at 60. Single sub in the corner. Do I chase placement first or just EQ the peak down?
Faint hum that gets louder when I touch the RCA connector shell. Single amp, single source, both on the same outlet. Ground loop, or is my chassis ground floating?
First "nice looking" build. Veneer scares me (glue, seams) but paint on MDF means a lot of priming/sanding to kill the fuzz. Which is more forgiving for a beginner?
Chasing distortion numbers. Below what THD level does it stop mattering for a home speaker at living room levels?
Did the sub crawl. Two positions measure almost equally flat. One is in the front corner, one is mid side wall. Tie breaker?
Sealed midrange sub enclosure, 1.5L. Long fiber wool, polyfill, or acoustic foam? Trying to kill the internal reflection without over damping.
Pairing an SB Acoustics SB17NRX woofer with a 28mm fabric dome. Both can comfortably cross around 2–2.5 kHz on paper. Where would you put it, and LR2 or LR4?
Need an interface for REW measurements (loopback timing + mic in). Under $100. Behringer UMC202HD? Or is there something better at that price?
Modeling 2× 15″ pro drivers in a 4th order bandpass for a small venue. WinISD says 128 dB in the passband. Is that realistic or am I going to be disappointed once it is built?
Want a gasket seal that is airtight but lets me pull the driver later without destroying the baffle. Mortite rope caulk? Or something better?
Building my first sub around a Dayton UM12 22 . Room is 32 m². I want tight bass for music but also some grunt for movies. Sealed gives me the transient response, ported the extension. Is a 0.7 Qtc sealed + EQ the move here, or should I just tune a ported box to 22 Hz?
Modeled a 28 Hz tune, measured it at 23 Hz. Port is the right length and diameter. Box volume is correct. What am I missing — does stuffing shift the tune that much?
My 2 way needs 5–6 dB of baffle step compensation, but every BSC circuit eats sensitivity. Is there a smarter way, or do I just accept the loss and pad the tweeter to match?
Little 2×50W TPA3116 board cuts out after 10 minutes at moderate volume, comes back when it cools. No heatsink on the chip. Thermal shutdown, right? Just add a heatsink?
Running a 2x4 HD now. The Flex has better converters and Dirac as an option. For a 2.1 active setup, is it a real upgrade or am I chasing specs?